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The tailcoat suit, also known as the morning suit, is a formal suit worn during official ceremonies, state banquets, formal weddings, etc., and consists of a jacket with a cutaway front and a long tail at the back, usually worn with trousers with a stripe down the side and a waistcoat. Here are some types:
Classic Double Tailcoat
The traditional form of this model is the double tailcoat. The back is divided into two long tails, and the front is short. It is knee-length in the back and waist-length in the front. The two-piece back is cut in a gentle curve. The snugly fitted jacket has a little flare at the hips. The lapels are either peaked or shawl, and the sleeves have a single button at the cuff. It is mostly worn for weddings and other ceremonies, such as state dinners.
Single Tailcoat
The single tailcoat is a modern style that is more fashionable than the double tailcoat. It has only one long tail at the back, and the front is slightly longer than the waist length. The single piece back is straight, and the jacket is loose-fitting. The lapels are mostly peaked, and the sleeves have two buttons at the cuff. This suit is primarily worn for business and formal occasions.
Morning Tailcoat
The morning tailcoat is worn in the morning, thus the name. It is different from the other models in that it is shorter and has no tails. The back is waist-length, and the front is hip-length. The back is cut in a straight line and is single-piece. The snugly fitting jacket has a little flare at the hips. The lapels are always peaked, and the sleeves have two buttons at the cuff. This suit is worn for business meetings and informal occasions.
Frock Tailcoat
It is an informal suit that has a short front and long tails at the back. The length is hip-length at the back and mid-thigh at the front. The back is cut in two pieces. The loose-fitting jacket has a straight cut. The lapels are shawl, and the sleeves have one button at the cuff. It is mostly worn during informal weddings and gatherings.
Cutaway Tailcoat
The cutaway tailcoat is a unique style that has a cutaway front and long tails at the back. The length is waist-length in the front and knee-length in the back. The back is single piece and straight. The snugly fitted jacket is slightly loose at the hips. The lapels are always peaked, and the sleeves have two buttons at the cuff. It is mostly worn during formal events and occasions.
Elegant and formal, the tailcoat suit is made up of a coat with a tail, usually worn in black or dark colors. It has a cut, fitted design with a long back part known as the tails, and it is typically accompanied by a waistcoat (vest) and trousers. This suit is popularly worn during formal events such as galas, state dinners, and high-profile weddings, which gives it an air of sophistication and exclusivity. Here are some of its designs:
Classic Two-Piece Tailcoat
The traditional representation of a tailcoat suit is the Classic two-piece tailcoat. It has a slim-fitting jacket with a cutaway front and long tails that reach the knees or slightly below them. This piece is commonly worn during formal occasions, which is the reason why it is mostly produced in dark colors, for instance, black, navy blue, and charcoal gray. The waistcoat and trousers are designed to match the coat, while the waistcoat is usually worn under the coat and is often double-breasted. The trousers have a straight or slightly tapered leg.
Modern Slim-Fit Tailcoat
In contrast to the conventional loose-fitting suits, the modern slim-fit tailcoat has a more defined form. The jacket is more fitted around the waist and hips, and the sleeves and shoulders are more fitted to give a slimmer silhouette. This style is fashionable among younger individuals who prefer a more contemporary look. Although the tail length and cutaway front remain unchanged, the overall look is more streamlined. The waistcoat is still worn beneath the jacket, but it may be single-breasted for a cleaner look.
Double-Breasted Tailcoat
Another variation is the double-breasted tailcoat, which has a wider front and a more formal appearance. The jacket features two parallel rows of buttons and a overlapping front. This design is preferred by some because of its symmetrical and balanced look. The waistcoat in a double-breasted suit is usually worn the same way as in other designs, and the trousers are coordinated to maintain a uniform appearance. The double-breasted style is often considered more traditional and can be associated with a more classic aesthetic.
Morning Tailcoat
Typically worn during daytime formal events, the morning tailcoat is a different style. It has a shorter tail, reaching only to the mid-thigh, and a more casual cut. The jacket is usually worn with lighter-colored waistcoats and trousers that may have stripes or patterns. This style is less formal than the evening tailcoat but remains elegant and sophisticated. The morning tailcoat is suitable for occasions such as weddings, garden parties, and business events held earlier in the day.
Tailcoat suits, also known as morning suits, are a formal wear choice that conveys elegance and sophistication. Here are some wearing and matching suggestions to help one create the perfect ensemble:
Wearing a Tailcoat Suit
For a polished and professional look, wearers should ensure that the tailcoat suit is well-fitted. The jacket should hug the shoulders without being too tight and the sleeves should end just at the wrist bone to show a bit of the shirt cuff. The trousers should sit comfortably at the waist without sagging or pinching. Pair the suit with a crisp white dress shirt, preferably with a stiff, pointed collar. Opt for a classic black bow tie or a tie in a subtle pattern, such as stripes or small dots. Complete the look with polished black dress shoes and a pocket square for a touch of flair.
Matching the Components
When matching components of a tailcoat suit, maintain a cohesive color palette. Choose a charcoal gray or midnight black tailcoat for a more formal event, such as a wedding or gala. Ensure that the trousers match the coat in color and are tailored to provide a sleek appearance. For a morning suit, select lighter shades like gray or brown. Pair it with complementary accessories – a navy or burgundy tie can add depth to a gray suit, while a light-colored tie can balance a brown suit. Remember, the key is to harmonize the colors and patterns without clashing. Subtle textures in the tie or pocket square can add interest without overwhelming the overall look.
Accessories and Finishing Touches
Accessories play a crucial role in elevating the tailcoat suit ensemble. Consider adding a classic wristwatch with a thin metal band for a timeless touch. Cufflinks in silver or gold can add a personal flair to the shirt cuffs. A stylish belt is essential for the trousers, particularly if they have belt loops. Opt for a slim, leather belt that complements the shoes. For outdoor events, a tailored overcoat in a neutral color can provide both warmth and style. Don’t forget about grooming – a well-styled haircut and clean-shaven appearance or neatly trimmed beard can complete the sophisticated vibe of the tailcoat suit.
Q1: What distinguishes a tailcoat suit from a regular tuxedo?
A1: While both are formal, a tailcoat suit features a coat with tails. In contrast, a standard tuxedo has a jacket without tails and is worn for black tie events.
Q2: Can one wear a tailcoat suit to a daytime event?
A2: Yes, it is appropriate for daytime weddings and formal gatherings. One should choose a lighter color and pair it with appropriate daytime accessories.
Q3: What length should the tailcoat's back be?
A3: The length of the tailcoat's back should fall just above the knees. This ensures a balanced and tailored appearance that is suitable for formal events.
Q4: Are there different styles of tailcoats?
A4: Yes, there are different styles. The classic double-breasted and single-breasted variations. Each tailored to individual preferences and body types.
Q5: What is the significance of the tailcoat's design in formal wear?
A5: The design of the tailcoat, with its distinct tails and structured silhouette, symbolizes elegance and tradition. It is representative of sophistication in men's formal wear.