Knit interlining

Types of knit interlining

Knit interlining is the interlining that is produced by knitting yarns rather than woven them. It has a good stretchability and is suitable for the parts that need stretchability, such as waistbands, cuffs, and so on. It can be used in the form of a roll or a sheet and is suitable for hot-melt or water-soluble adhesive.

• Woven Interlining

  Woven interlinings are produced by weaving processes such as plain weave, twill weave, or satin weave. They are relatively stable and do not stretch much in any direction. Woven interlinings are used for interlining fabrics with little or no stretch and are generally used for woven fabrics. Woven interlinings are made of cotton, polyester, nylon, or their blends and are available in different weights and thicknesses.

• Knit Interlining

  Knit interlining is produced by knitting yarns and has good stretchability. It is suitable for parts that require stretch, such as waistbands and cuffs. Available in roll or sheet form, it can be used with hot-melt or water-soluble adhesives. There are two main types of knit interlining: Circular knit interlining and Tricot knit interlining. Circular knit interlining is produced using a circular knitting machine. It is a highly stretchy interlining and is mainly used in knit fabrics. On the other hand, Tricot knit interlining is made using a tricot knitting machine, and it has a good crosswise stretch with little lengthwise stretch. As a result, it is mainly used for woven fabric.

• Fusible Interlining

  Fusible interlining is the most common type of interlining. It has a heat-activated adhesive on one side that bonds to the fabric when pressed with a heat source, such as an iron. Fusible interlinings are easy to use and do not require additional sewing to attach them to the fabric. They are available in both knit and woven types and are suitable for various fabrics and applications.

• Non-fusible Interlining

  Non-fusible interlining does not have an adhesive on one side. It is attached to the fabric by basting, sewing, or other methods. Non-fusible interlining is often used for delicate fabrics that may be damaged by heat or those that require a different type of adhesive. It is available in various types, including knit, woven, and specialty interlinings.

• Specialty Interlining

  Specialty interlinings are designed for specific applications or fabrics. They may have unique properties, such as extra stiffness, heat resistance, or moisture wicking. Specialty interlinings are used for particular fabrics or applications, such as tailoring, upholstery, or activewear.

Design of knit interlinings

The design of knit interlinings incorporates various factors that ensure flexibility, functionality, and adherence to garment specifications. These elements work together to create interlinings that provide the necessary support and stability for different types of fabrics and garment components.

• Stretch and Recovery

  The design of knit interlinings primarily focuses on providing stretch and recovery properties. It should elongate in the direction of the fabric's stretch and return to its original length after release. This property enables the interlining to move with the fabric and maintain its shape. Spandex or elastane blends with cotton or polyester are commonly used to achieve the required stretch and recovery characteristics.

• Weight and Thickness

  The weight and thickness of a knit interlining can affect its performance. A lightweight interlining adds minimal bulk to the fabric, making it suitable for lightweight garments. On the other hand, a heavier interlining provides more support and structure, making it ideal for heavier fabrics. The thickness of the interlining also influences the drape and feel of the finished garment.

• Fabric Composition

  The fabric composition of knit interlinings is critical in determining their compatibility with different fabrics. Interlinings made from natural fibers like cotton are breathable and environmentally friendly. In contrast, polyester interlinings offer durability and resistance to wrinkles. Blends of both fibers combine the advantages of each, providing a balance of breathability and durability.

• Adhesive Properties

  Some knit interlinings are designed with adhesive properties. They come with a heat-activated glue on one side that helps bond the interlining to the fabric. This feature simplifies the application process and ensures a secure attachment. The adhesive is carefully formulated to provide strong bonding while allowing for adjustments during the placement.

• Color and Finish

  The color and finish of knit interlinings can be adapted to match or complement the outer fabric. They are often available in neutral shades that blend with various colors. The finish can range from smooth to textured, depending on the desired aesthetic and functionality. A smooth finish facilitates easy handling and application, while a textured finish can enhance grip and adhesion.

Wearing/matching suggestions of knit interlining

Here are some tips for wearing and matching knit interlinings:

• Wearing Tips:

  Wearing a knit interlining entails considering both comfort and functionality. To start with, it is essential to ensure that the interlining is properly fused or sewn into the garment, which provides a smooth and wrinkle-free appearance. Also, one should examine the edges for any loose threads or peeling components. Additionally, wearers should pay attention to the care instructions for knit interlinings. This is because washing and drying techniques preserve their shape and elasticity. More importantly, when wearing a garment with a knit interlining, one should adjust the garment accordingly. This enhances comfort and allows for ease of movement without compromising the structural integrity of the interlining.

• Matching Tips:

  Matching knit interlining with fabrics requires consideration of several key factors. First of all, the weight and stretch of the interlining should be compatible with those of the fabric. This ensures that the drape and elasticity of the finished garment are maintained. Additionally, one should consider the type of knit interlining. For instance, fusible interlinings should be matched with fabrics that can be easily fused without damaging them. On the other hand, sew-in interlinings should be matched with fabrics that can hold stitches well. Also, one should take into account the color and texture of both the interlining and the fabric. This ensures a cohesive look and feel. In most cases, neutral-colored interlinings are more versatile. However, they should be matched with complementary shades and textures to achieve a seamless blend.

Q&A

Q1: What is the main purpose of interlining in garments?

A1: The primary purpose of interlining is to provide additional support and structure to garments, especially in areas that require more stability, such as collars, cuffs, and button plackets. It helps maintain the shape of these parts and prevents them from stretching or sagging over time. Interlining also adds a layer of insulation, enhancing the overall warmth and comfort of a garment.

Q2: How do you choose the right type of interlining for a specific fabric?

A2: Selecting the appropriate interlining involves considering the fabric's characteristics and the desired outcome. For lightweight fabrics, a sheer and lightweight interlining is suitable to avoid adding bulk. Conversely, heavier fabrics may require a more substantial interlining for adequate support. It's essential to choose an interlining that complements the fabric's drape and weight to achieve a harmonious result in the finished garment.

Q3: Can interlining be fused to any type of fabric?

A3: While many fabrics can be fused with interlining, it's crucial to consider the heat sensitivity of some materials. Delicate fabrics like silk or certain synthetics may be damaged by high heat during the fusing process. In such cases, hand-sewing methods or low heat settings should be used to attach the interlining. Always test a small area before applying heat to the entire fabric to ensure no adverse effects occur.

Q4: How does interlining affect the drape of a garment?

A4: Interlining can significantly impact a garment's drape, depending on its weight and stiffness. A lightweight and flexible interlining will have minimal effect on the fabric's natural drape, preserving its intended look and feel. On the other hand, a heavier or stiffer interlining may add structure and formality to the garment, making it more tailored and structured. The key is to choose an interlining that aligns with the desired drape and style of the finished design.

Q5: Are there any interlining options for knit fabrics?

A5: Yes, there are interlining options specifically designed for knit fabrics. Knit interlinings are stretchy and flexible, allowing them to move with the fabric without restricting its natural elasticity. These interlinings are ideal for garments made from knit fabrics like jerseys, interlocks, and rib knits. They provide support and structure while maintaining the softness and drape of the knit fabric, resulting in comfortable and well-fitting garments.