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A climbing hangboard, also known as a training board, is a tool used by climbers to improve their strength and skills for climbing. It is typically a wooden or plastic board with various handhold shapes and sizes, such as edges, pockets, and slopers, to simulate the different grips used in climbing. Climbers perform hanging exercises by suspending their body weight from the handholds on the board to enhance their finger strength, grip strength, and pulling power. Here are the main types of climbing hangboards:
Wooden Hangboards
Wooden hangboards have a more comfortable and skin-friendly grip. They are less abrasive than plastic boards, reducing the risk of skin damage. Additionally, they often have a variety of holds, including edges and pockets, which allow for a well-rounded training routine. Many climbers find that training on a wooden board improves their strength while being gentler on their fingers.
Plastic Hangboards
Plastic hangboards are the most common type found in gyms. They come in various shapes and sizes, with different types of holds. Some even have adjustable angles to simulate different climbing scenarios. While they can be harsh on the skin, particularly new users, their consistent use can lead to significant strength gains. They are durable and often used for fingerboard exercises.
Adjustable Hangboards
Adjustable hangboards offer versatility in training. They can change the depth of the holds or even switch between different types of holds entirely. This adaptability allows climbers to customize their training to target specific weaknesses or improve overall strength. Some models also include pull-up bars and other features to enhance the workout experience.
Portable Hangboards
Portable hangboards are perfect for climbers who are always on the move. They can be easily set up anywhere and often come with a simple design that includes essential holds for effective training. Despite their simplicity, they still provide a solid workout for maintaining finger and grip strength. These boards are great for warm-ups or as a convenient training tool while traveling.
Climbing hangboards are versatile training tools that can be used in various climbing training applications. Here are some key usage scenarios:
Strength and Power-Endurance Training
Climbers usually use hangboards for strength and power-endurance training. This involves hanging from the board with different fingers and grips for some seconds to develop muscles in the arms and fingers. For this reason, this training is considered important for increasing the bearing capacity of fingers and enhancing the strength of the upper body, which is necessary for explosive movements when carrying out short and difficult climbing routes.
Progressive Overload
Progressive Overload is achieved by gradually increasing the weight on the hangboard. This can be done by adding weight plates or a weight vest or increasing the time spent hanging. This is important for continuously challenging muscles to improve strength and bearing capacity of fingers. Essentially, this is a very important technique for climbers who are planning to scale up their training intensity and enhance their performance.
Injury Rehabilitation and Prevention
Hangboards can also be used to bear the load of fingers and ensure that there are no injuries when carrying out climbing activities. This is achieved by enabling climbers to gradually train their fingers and wrists to support more weight without necessarily straining them. This is very important since it reduces cases where climbers get injured in fingers and wrists. However, during this training, it is advisable that climbers use controlled and limited loads to avoid aggravating their injuries.
Endurance Training
Endurance training on hangboards involves hanging for longer periods with lower weights. This helps in developing muscles that are capable of enduring more strength without getting tired quickly. This is achieved by maintaining a steady load for about 30 seconds to 2 minutes. This training helps climbers to carry on with longer climbing sessions. This is useful for climbers who are interested in improving their ability to do long and sustained climbs.
Technique and Grip Variability
Training techniques and grip variations can be done using a hangboard. This is done by using different types of grips such as open hand, crimp, or pinch. This helps in improving the climber's ability to use various grip types and climbing techniques. This training is very useful since it enables climbers to get used to different types of holds that are found on climbing routes. This results in improving their overall climbing performance and reducing chances of injuries.
Selecting the appropriate climbing hangboard involves considering various factors to ensure it meets the user's needs and preferences. Here are the key considerations:
Material
Boards made from wood offer a more comfortable grip and better moisture absorption compared to those made from plastic. However, the plastic ones are more durable and easier to clean. Therefore, the user's skin type and the board's intended use should guide material selection.
Ergonomic Design
A crucial aspect of an effective hangboard is its ergonomic design, which should prioritize the climber's safety by minimizing injury risks, especially to fingers. This can be achieved through rounded edges and a gradual depth increase. Additionally, having a variety of holds is essential, as it enables climbers to train different grip styles. Ideally, a good hangboard should have flat and sloped ledges, shallow pockets, and deep recesses.
Mounting Options
When choosing a hangboard, it is essential to consider boards with versatile installation options, such as those that can be mounted on a doorframe, walls, or free-standing setups. Additionally, boards that can be dismounted easily are crucial, particularly for individuals who relocate frequently or intend to share the board with other climbers.
Progression and Adjustment
It is important to select a hangboard that allows for adjustable difficulty levels. This can be done through added weights or removable training attachments. Moreover, some boards come with interchangeable grips, which are beneficial for climbers looking to enhance their training by progressively increasing the challenges they undertake.
Size and Portability
If hangboards are to be used for travel or in smaller living spaces, portability and size become important factors. Lightweight and compact designs are ideal for such scenarios.
Integrated Features
Advanced climbing hangboards include integrated features like built-in weights, digital monitors for tracking progress, and even pre-set training programs. These features can be beneficial for climbers looking for a comprehensive training tool.
Strengthening and Conditioning
The primary purpose of climbing hangboards is to improve the strength of climbers' fingers and hands. This strength is vital for gripping holds on climbs. Regular workouts on hangboards can also help other muscles in the upper body and core to get more defined, improving overall performance.
Endurance Training
Endurance can be improved by doing repeaters or increasing time intervals on the hangboard. This makes the muscles less tired when doing longer climbs.
Reducing Injury Risks
By training the fingers' tendons and making them strong enough to support the bones of the hands, leg up climbing boards help climbers do strength exercises with a lower risk of injury.
Variety of Holds
Most hangboards have different types of holds—edges, slopers, pockets, and pinches. This lets climbers work on different grip styles and makes their hands and fingers versatile.
Adjustable Difficulty
Some hangboards come with holds that can be moved or switched out, allowing climbers to change the board's difficulty level to suit their training needs. This feature is especially helpful for progressive training where the intensity needs to increase gradually.
Ergonomic Design
Many hangboards are designed to fit the natural shape of the hands, with rounded edges and a comfortable surface to reduce stress on fingers. Some even have deeper pockets for people with long fingers. A good design ensures that training can be done safely and effectively.
Material
Hangboards are usually made from materials like wood or resin, which are strong and give a good grip. Wooden boards are easy on the skin, while resin boards are more durable. Some boards are also made from a mix of both materials.
Mounting Options
Climbing hangboards can be mounted on a wall, a door, or a specially made frame. Wall-mounted boards are great for permanent setups. Portable boards that hang on doors are ideal for people who travel.
Additional Features
Some hangboards come with extra features like built-in strength gauges, digital timers for tracking workouts, and even integrated training programs. These features can help climbers monitor their progress and improve their training efficiency.
How does a climbing hangboard work?
To train their strength and improve their grip, climbers utilise a climbing hangboard. By hanging from it with their hands and various grips, the board forces them to exert effort. As a result, the muscles in their hands, fingers, and arms become stronger. They can climb more easily and securely because of this increased strength.
How to use a climbing hangboard?
Begin by hanging with your hands on the board and your feet on the ground or a support below it. Gradually increase the time you hang, starting with 10 seconds and then taking breaks for 2 minutes as you do so. Adjust the board's edges to use shallower ones as your strength increases. Ensure you have a safe landing area below the board in case you fall.
What is the purpose of a hangboard?
Hangboards are training tools that climbers utilise to improve their grip strength. By hanging from a board with different handholds, they force their muscles to work, making their fingers and hands stronger. This increased strength helps climbers tackle tougher climbs and reduces injury risks.
Are hangboards effective?
Yes, hangboards are effective training tools for climbers. When used properly, they help build finger strength, which is crucial for improving climbing performance. Regular training on a hangboard can lead to significant gains in grip strength, helping climbers tackle more challenging routes.
