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There are two major types of thioglycolic acid that people commonly use: the synthetically produced isoform and the most naturally occurring form. The naturally occurring thioglycolic acid is the one that people extract from plants. Those plants include aloe vera and garlic, while the synthetically manufactured one is available in controlled, laboratory-based forms.
L-TGA
Due to its powerful reducing capability, the naturally occurring form of thioglycolic acid, L-TGA, is often extracted from garlic and other plants. Because it is weaker and therefore safer to use at high concentrations than the comparable D-TGA form, it is mostly used in cosmetic goods.
D-TGA
Because of its stronger action and more effective adnexal and epidermal absorption compared to L-TGA, D-TGA is the less prevalent form of TGA in nature. It is mostly utilized in research and medical treatments that call for a stronger reductive action, like possible hair weakening treatments.
Racemic thioglycolic acid
This is the synthetic version of TGA that contains both L and D forms of thioglycolic acid. It is mostly used in medicine and industry and is good for hair weakening and curl loosening.
For over 30 years, thioglycolic acid has been an important ingredient in various industries. This is especially true when it comes to chemical hair treatments. Its ability to disable disulfide bonds in keratin makes it useful in those industries.
Here are some of its groundbreaking features:
Chemical structure and properties
Thioglycolic acid is composed of an elongated carbon chain, a hydroxyl group (—OH or hydroxyl functional group), and a sulfur atom (—S) bounded to an offset carbon atom from the chain. This structure gives TGA both acidic and reducing properties.
Reducing agent
As a noteworthy feature, the chemical structure of thioglycolic acid enables it to act as a reducing agent by disabling disulfide bonds. This makes it indispensable in industries that require protein reshaping. Such industries include cosmetics, skincare, food processing, and textiles.
pH and solubility
Thioglycolic acid has a low pH and is extremely soluble in water and alcohol. This ensures easy incorporation into various formulations for skin or hair care.
Formulation versatility
People use thioglycolic acid in many different cosmetic formulations. Those include permanent waves, depilatory creams, conditioning treatments, and even facial masks.
Stability
While thioglycolic acid is generally stable under normal conditions of use, its stability may be compromised under extremely alkaline or elevated temperature conditions. Under such conditions, it tends to result in reduced effectiveness. For that reason, manufacturers have to take great care to store thioglycolic acid in a cool and neutral pH environment.
There are several ways to use thioglycolic acid. People use this acid in various therapeutic, industrial, and cosmetic applications. They include:
Chemical hair relaxing
The most common way to use thioglycolic acid is in chemical hair straightening. In fact, it is one of the most used ingredients in the makeup of hair relaxers and waving lotions. This is because, as an active form of mercurial acid, it penetrates the hair shaft and disables disulfide bonds. Doing this temporarily changes the structure of the hair so that it can remain straight or curled depending on what the user prefers.
Depilatory creams
As a reducing agent, thioglycolic acid interacts with the keratin located in hair follicles. It weakens and breaks down hair on the skin's surface when incorporated into depilatory creams. This delivers hair removal lasting several days uneasily without offering any pain as a conventional shaving would cause.
Cosmetic formulations
The acid has keratolytic properties that help to exfoliate dead skin cells when included in facial masks and skin treatment products. Because of this, it aids in cell turnover and allows other active agents to be absorbed. This promotes hydration, anti-aging effects, and overall skin health.
Textile industry
People also use thioglycolic acid in modifying textile fibers. It does this by breaking down the disulfide bonds in keratin-based fibers such as silk and wool. In this regard, it enhances dye uptake and fiber compatibility with other materials.
Pharmaceuticals
They use thioglycolic acid in the pharmaceutical industry in the synthesis of medicinal compounds containing thiol groups. People employ those thiol groups in potential antimicrobial and antioxidant activity drugs.
Industrial applications
In the industrial setting, people use thioglycolic acid as a chelating agent for the treatment and recovery of metals. It does this by forming soluble complexes with metals like nickel, copper, or silver. This effectively aids in the removal of excess metal from wastewater or facilitates the recovery of these metals in recycling processes.
Avoid contamination
To avoid contamination, only use new, clean equipment, containers, or spatula to handle the acid. Also, avoid exposure to the open air by immediately closing the storage container whenever taking a portion of the acid. Moreover, always return the cap once the contents are exposed to the air because oxygen may degrade them over time.
A cool and dry place
For long-term storage of thioglycolic acid, a stable, cool, and dry environment is the best. The temperatures should range between 10-20 degrees Celsius. Never allow the acid to freeze or overheat as extreme temperatures will certainly compromise its chemical integrity. This is even more critical if it's in a blended or compounded form with other less stable constituents.
Proper container selection
Constantly store thioglycolic acid in high-quality, airtight containers to increase their longevity. The materials should be either glass or high-density polyethylene (HDPE). Just ensure that the acid is never kept in metal containers because thioglycolic acid tends to corrode several types of metals over time. When storing the acid, ensure that the container is tightly sealed so that it can minimize exposure to air.
Labeling and inventory rotation
Clearly identify all storage containers with the date of purchase so that its users can know when the acid was purchased and the expiration date. Use the FIFO (first-in, first-out) method for acid storage. This helps to make sure that older stocks are used up before newer ones to avoid expiration or spoilage.
Transportation and handling precautions
Store thioglycolic acid in secure packaging to avoid spillage during transportation. Use cushioning materials such as bubble wrap, or foam peanuts, especially for glass containers. Also, wear protective gear like gloves, goggles, and long sleeves. This should be the case any time one is handling the acid. This will protect the user against skin or eye irritations in case of accidental exposure.
Store away from incompatible substances
Avoid storing thioglycolic acid near hazardous substances such as strong oxidizing agents, heavy metals, or acids like nitric or sulfuric acid. This is because exposure to such highly reactive elements may result in unfavorable chemical reactions. Therefore, all these substances should be stored in a separate section in the storage room.
It is ruled out that, while thioglycolic acid is secure for most skin types, sensitive or allergy-prone individuals should use it with caution. It is recommended to do patch testing before fully embracing it for widespread use. When using it in chemical relaxers or depilatories, follow the instructions and avoid prolonged exposure to prevent irritation.Seek professional medical advice before using thioglycolic acid, especially for those with special health concerns, such as elderly users, children, or people with specific medical conditions; it may react adversely with thioglycolic acid. Furthermore, people with chemotherapy, cardiovascular, or immune deficiency disorders should consult their doctor before using thioglycolic acid. This is due to the fact that it has the potential to interact with certain drugs and, as a result, adversely affect already weakened immune systems.
People can buy thioglycolic acid from either a local pharmacy store or an online shop. However, they should prioritize placing the orders to reputable, high-quality vendors that stock the acid in the right-quality form. Those vendors should also sell the acid with suitable detailing about the product's uses and ingredients. Buyers should also ensure to get the acid that comes with use instructions so that they can avoid any harmful side effects.
Unfortunately, thioglycolic acid has an expiry time. Its shelf life is mostly affected by the type of storage container it is kept in, the storage temperature, the degree of exposure to air, and the acidity or basicity of the environment. When stored in the right conditions, thioglycolic acid can last from 1 to 3 years. However, do not confuse the shelf life of a product with its usability. The product may be untreatable after the expiration date even though it can still be usable.
Users should keep in mind that there are several potential adverse effects associated with the usage of thioglycolic acid. Some of those side effects include skin irritation or chemical burns. This is particularly true when people leave thioglycolic acid depilatories on too long or when they have a low pH.
